Some Stains Are Just Evil...Pure Evil

As this video shows, sometimes a stain is persistent. It will be difficult to remove under the best of circumstances, but by using some basic principles of carpet cleaning you can achieve success (or at least a marked improvement).

First, do a thorough pre-vacuum to remove all the loose particulate and surface dirt. Only then can you access the true magnitude of the stains present, and evaluate what chemicals may be needed.

When vacuuming, be sure to really concentrate on maximum pick-up and take your time. Hit the carpet with well overlapped passes at a moderate to slow speed. Try to vacuum from more than one direction on each section of carpet and make several passes to ensure as much debris as possible gets picked up.

Note: if you have a bagged vacuum, make sure the bag isn't full and that you still getting adequate suction. Also adjust the brushroll (if equipped) to a proper height...bagless models should have clean filters and not be overfilled or they won't pick up properly.


Second, examine stains and try to identify what your working against.

Test a small area with the soap you plan to use and see if rubbing the soap around with your shoe (or an old toothbrush) has any effect on the stain. If you see the stain is being released then you can use the chemical tested to pre-spray the carpet. Some stains may need a different product (spotter) to work and they can be treated as well at this time.

You may need to re-apply these chemicals during the cleaning process so keep them handy. In any case, a good rule of thumb when using pre-spray is to allow "dwell-time" to allow the detergents to "break down" the stains bond to the carpet fibers. About ten minutes is usually a good starting time to allow (keep in mind to allow some "dwell-time" if you need to re-apply chem's during the cleaning process as well!!!)

Third stage is when you get to use the fun button on the Rug Doctor. This red button is where your thumb can easily press it during cleaning.

But wait, we have to get the machine properly set-up first.

Adjustments...the handle can be raised or lowered by manipulating the lever on the side of the arm to adjust the height.

Proper adjustment will be achieved by testing until you have full contact of the vacuum slot (very front of machine) fully pressed into the carpet, without having the effect of lifting the wheels off the carpet when pulling back (you have to try this to see what I'm talking about).

When pulling backwards for a pass, if the nozzle at front is lifting off the carpet slightly as you move it, it will cause a great loss of suction (i.e. wet carpets).

By the same token, lowering the handle too much to attempt FORCING the nozzle into the carpet will only make your job much more difficult and hurt your back...take the time to achieve proper adjustment.

Filling the fresh water reservoir...Hot tap water (no need to boil) filled with a clean bucket (NEVER use the white recovery tank to re-fill the machine) to the point that you start to see water in the strainer area of the reservoir.

Adding detergent is optional (as you pre-sprayed it remember), but if you wish to add soap use Rug Doctor brand only here as it will protect your warranty...(recovery tank is not sensitive to type of detergent used so other brand soap's are safe when pre-sprayed).

Now that you are prepared, begin making passes at a moderate speed (not too slow as that puts WAY more water down than necessary).

Overlap each pass slightly and on really dirty areas adjust speed to scrub stains harder.

Note that when the red button is pressed the unit both sprays water from the fresh water reservoir AND applies the brush, so when not pressed the unit only picks up. This is a great feature because continuous brushing (like in a belt driven always on machine) will possibly damage carpets, so being able to make suction passes (button not pressed) aids in keeping the moisture content down...better drying times!

Use more detergent if stains persist and keep making suction only passes (do these immediately after cleaning passes to get the water completely out...if you wait a few seconds the water can sink down lower into the carpet nap and backing and be harder to remove).

Work the worst area's, and re-spray them and go to another area for a few minutes before coming back and re-trying to clean them.

The carpet in this video was allowed to be this way for over a year. This is not a good condition to walk in and be faced with. But by going over areas again and again (suction passes make this possible) you can remove a LOT of difficult stains.

Follow up treatments will help to slowly improve carpeting that has been allowed to get really dirty. Wait a few days and do the same thing again but you'll see that the return visits are easier than the first cleaning was.

Important note: you must remove all of the detergent you put down...even if the stain is still not all the way out. If you don't flush out the detergent it will add to the stain by becoming a dirt magnet...trust me!

You must do adequate suction passes...or else the carpet will not be dry within a few hours (3 to 4 is pretty good...over 5 and you should have made more suction passes).

Wet carpet will usually get dark as it dries due to "wicking" which is the capillary action that pulls sub-surface dirt up to the surface as the fibers dry...it's like a big sponge that takes the dirt from the floor and pulls it out...bad to do...very unprofessional!

Take care and do all the steps and cleaning the unclean-able can be done.

Remember that the carpets in this condition are basically ruined if you don't do anything to treat them. Even if you extend the life a few months it's worth the effort...especially if you yourself have to live on the carpet.

Good luck!